Most people choose a cooking surface on how it cooks, which is reasonable. But gas, induction and dual fuel each make very different demands on the infrastructure behind the wall, and finding that out after the appliance is delivered is an expensive way to learn.
Gas: the run, the connector and the leak test
A gas range or cooktop needs an appropriately sized supply, a shutoff valve you can actually reach, and a flexible connector rated for the appliance. Older Bay Area homes frequently have gas runs sized for a 1950s range, which is a problem when you install a 48-inch pro unit with a 120,000 BTU total load.
Every joint we make gets leak-tested before the appliance goes into service, and every gas appliance gets its burners run and its flame pattern checked. If a burner is yellow-tipping or will not hold a low simmer, something is wrong and it gets addressed before we leave.
Induction: it is an electrical project
Induction cooktops are the fastest and most controllable surfaces available, and they need serious current. Most full-size units want a dedicated 240V circuit at 40 or 50 amps. Many older homes simply do not have a spare slot in the panel, let alone the capacity.
This is the single most common reason an induction install gets delayed. We check the panel and the existing circuit during the site inspection, tell you exactly what the electrician needs to provide, and schedule the install for after that work is done.
Dual fuel: both sets of requirements
A dual fuel range gives you gas burners with an electric oven, which many cooks consider the ideal combination. It also means you need both a correctly sized gas supply and a 240V circuit, and the range cannot run properly without either.
It is worth confirming both before ordering. We check the gas stub position and the outlet location against the manufacturer's rough-in drawing during our pre-measurement visit.
Ventilation changes with the fuel
Different surfaces produce different plumes, and the ventilation should follow:
- Gas produces combustion byproducts as well as cooking effluent, so it generally wants more CFM.
- Induction produces no combustion products, so hoods can often be mounted slightly lower and run quieter.
- Pro-style gas ranges above 60,000 BTU frequently need a hood in the 900 to 1200 CFM range.
- High-CFM installations may trigger a make-up air requirement in your jurisdiction.
We size hood installations around the cooking surface rather than around the width of the cabinet, which is how it should be done.
And if you are on propane
Plenty of properties in Napa, Sonoma and the hills above the East Bay are not on a natural gas main. Appliances shipped configured for natural gas need a full LP conversion: new orifices in every burner, a converted or replaced regulator, and the low flame screws reset valve by valve.
There is no way to do this by simply adjusting the pressure. Propane needs physically smaller orifices, and running it through natural gas orifices produces dangerously oversized flames. We use the manufacturer's own conversion kit every time and leak-test the whole appliance afterwards.
